Chewing everything in the house is a common complaint of dog parents - especially during adolescence, puppyhood, or after the honeymoon period of adoption (when they settle in and feel comfy). This behaviour can be stressful - and expensive - for you, the guardian! Good news is that chewing is a very normal and necessary part of being a dog, and we can provide appropriate outlets for your dog and change the environment to teach them what’s out of bounds for those teeth and what’s not.

Chewing is one of the most self-reinforcing things a dog can do: it releases calming endorphins and gives dogs a physical and mental outlet. Dogs may chew because of:

• Stress or anxiety: Chewing is genuinely calming. Dogs often reach for it when they're overwhelmed.
• Boredom or understimulation: A dog without enough to do will find something to chew.
• Teething: Puppies between 3–6 months chew intensely as adult teeth come through. Those teeth really hurt; I don’t know if you remember when your teeth were growing, but ouch! More on puppy chewing here: [link] 
• It just feels good: Even happy, well-exercised adult dogs chew because they enjoy it - it’s good for their brain!

Providing appropriate chewing activities helps channel this behaviour in a positive direction. Helping your dog reduce stress, settle, clean those teeth, and have a good hobby.

If you don’t want those delicious shoes chewed up, ensure they are unavailable to the dog. By preventing access to the items you don’t want chewed (often called ‘management’ in trainer-speak), you reduce the likelihood of those delicious, expensive shoes becoming a tasty habit. As your dog learns what’s off limits, and you ensure you have appropriate outlets for them to sink their teen into, you’ll be able to reduce management techniques. This may be quick or may require adjustments over your dog’s life. 

• Storing valuable objects out of reach
• Using baby gates or exercise pens to limit access to certain areas
• Providing supervision when the dog is free in the home
• Sacrificing cheaper beds, blankets, and toys during developmental phases

You need to provide a variety of safe and appropriate chews - rotating them can maintain interest. Find out what your dog likes and when trialling what works for your dog, aim for at least one new chew per day. 

Safe and appropriate depends on your dog - some dogs may be fine gnawing on a bone, while others will scoff it and end up at the vet. Always ask your vet and trainer what’s suitable for your dog and understand that many chews on the market carry inherent risk. Supervise when required. 

Some common options for chews are bully sticks, roo ribs, chicken feet, veggies such as carrots, and hard plastic chews or soft teddies from pet shops.

Although it can be very frustrating, expensive, or even dangerous to have your dog chew on things they should not, it is important that you do not punish them for chewing. At best, you are harming your relationship and your dog is unlikely to realise what they’re getting punished for; at worst, they will just sneakily chew, as this need is natural and normal, and make it likely they end up ingesting more items they’re not supposed to - making some very expensive and scary vet trips likely.

Instead of yelling no! You can train a positive interrupter cue. This is a helpful cue that’s worth training to tell them ‘hey, excuse me, stop that and check in with me!’ Don’t forget to provide them with what they’re meant to be chewing instead. If you can’t break the habit, try substituting with similar things. I.e. the furniture corners getting chewed? Provide a soft wood chew like coffee wood chew. 

If you’re stuck, check that you’re meeting their needs with exercise, health, enrichment, and reach out to your local force-free trainer to help problem-solve.